Michael Rider takes the helm as the new creative director of Celine, with the brand’s first major show held at their headquarters located at 16 Rue Vivienne in Paris. This marks a significant return to physical showcases for the brand since 2023, officially ushering in a new chapter for Celine!
As the debut collection of Michael Rider, it’s naturally highly anticipated. The opening look features a sharply tailored camel blazer paired with skinny jeans. Through his personal design language, Michael Rider pays homage to two predecessors, Phoebe Philo and Hedi Slimane, almost allowing us to glimpse the soul of Old Céline; at the same time, there’s a touch of Hedi Slimane’s influence. The signature tight silhouettes reminiscent of Hedi Slimane make a comeback, highlighting the sleek figures of modern men and women; while the wide shoulders and narrow waist cuts from the Phoebe Philo era return in an even more refined manner.
Michael Rider cleverly infuses American collegiate elements into the elegance of French style. Oversized rugby shirts, polo shirts, and classic ties showcase his extensive background, reflected in the diverse styles he designs. This mixed-gender fashion show features looks ranging from daywear to evening attire, including logo tees, suits, leather jackets, trench coats, and even a little black dress crafted from Celine ribbons. Amidst the dominant black and white palette, bold pops of blue, red, and green add a vibrant touch.
The cleverness of Michael Rider shines through in his accessories, showcasing a striking layering of rings, necklaces, and bracelets made from various metals that exude a sense of luxury while maintaining a relaxed, carefree vibe. Many looks are topped off with a casually tied silk scarf, reminiscent of Celine’s past elegance; even more exciting is the return of the iconic Luggage Phantom bag, crafted by Phoebe Philo, now reinterpreted on the runway.
Michael Rider wrote in a letter after the show: I’ve always loved the idea of fashion—it can endure, becoming a part of the wearer’s life. It has the power to capture a moment, narrating the passage of time, various occasions, and transformations. It tells stories of the past, present, and future; it speaks of memories, practicality, and imagination, revealing the essence of life. This time, Michael Rider infused his own understanding and style into the brand’s tradition, defining a new direction for Celine!
